- n. Late Middle English via Old French from Arabic zaytūnī ‘of Tsinkiang’, a town in China. A basic binding system or weave structure in which the threads of the warp are caught and looped by the weft only at certain intervals. It is based on a unit of five or more ends and a number of picks equal to, or a multiple of, the number of ends. Each end either passes over four or more adjacent picks and under the next one, or the contrary, under four or more adjacent picks and over the next one. Units of six do not work mathematically. It has a surface of long floats, which reflects light when woven, bound in a systematic way but whose binding is not readily visible. The main or front surface of a satin weave is the face on which the warps form the floats.
- CIETA. Vocabulary of technical terms of fabrics (English, French, Italian, Spanish). Lyon: Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens, 1964; Burnham, Dorothy. Warp and Weft. A Textile Terminology. Royal Ontario Museum, 1980; Phipps, Elena. Looking at Textiles. A guide to technical terms. Los Angeles: Getty Publications, 2011; Stevenson, Angus, ed. Oxford Dictionary of English. 3rd ed. Oxford University Press, 2010.
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